Friday, February 27, 2009

Arrivederci





After a crazy, crazy week of midterms, it is time for Spring Break. I'm going with about 45 other students and one professor to Tunisia for the week. It's a very packed itinerary, and I'm hoping that I'm bringing enough film with me.

Two weekends ago, I went to Milan to visit Paige, Meghan, and Jake. Milan had a distinctly different feel from Rome - it felt like a younger, more focused city to me. There was also graffiti of Gary Coleman's face in more than one place - strange. We went to this giant castle-fortress thing that I'm forgetting the name of now, but there were lots of cats (of course) and a funny old lady with a green parrot on her shoulder who talked to her in Italian. Paige and I made excellent pasta - gnocchi alla sorrentina - and walked to the overwhelmingly ornate Duomo. The last night, we met Jack and Ed, Scottish and English teachers working in Lyon, France and we made fun of the ridiculous music videos playing in the bar.


Last weekend, I stayed in Rome for the first time in a while, which was great. I spent most of my time in the darkroom/sculpture studio, but I did go to the giant flea market - Porta Portese, which was insane. SO many people, SO many stands, SO much yelling. But great.
Okay, I'm off to Africa. I will definitely write more next week, maybe about camels.

Friday, February 13, 2009

One Month in Rome







Hey kids, it's been exactly one month since I got here, and it really doesn't feel like it at all. I'll be leaving in just under 3 months or in 82 days. Every day I feel like I'm reminded of how much more exploring and general touristing I want to do, like going inside the Vatican, the Sistine Chapel and the church that has layers underground. But that will have to wait, because I'm going to Milan this weekend to see some UPS kids.

Last weekend was Florence or Firenze, with my High Renaissance Art History Class. In Florence, I was constantly attacked with a case of Stendhal syndrome due to constant exposure to amazing art. We stayed in a ridiculous place - "Hotel California" - by the Duomo and had a lot of free time. The main events were the Medici Chapel, Brunellschi's Duomo, the David and the Academia, the Uffizi Gallery, and the Borgello. My favorite spot we came upon in Florence was the Ponte Vecchio - "Old Bridge" - lined with shops that at night were closed in little wooden boxes like pirate treasure chests. It was also pretty great to sneak about 40 pictures of the David in the Academia with my giant camera.

The first night the entire class ate dinner together with the professor, Paolo. He and another student got into a yelling match about Israel and Palestine, which eventually turned into a comparsion of horrible things that have been committed against innocent people. My professor's argument was that the bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki were equivalent to the damage done during the Holocaust. I'd never considered comparing the two before, and while I think that it's not necessary to place atrocities in juxtaposition, it was refreshing to actually hear a professor's opinion that was much different from the students', and to feel engaged in this debate with someone with a completely different world view about such major events in history.

On the art side of things, the light meter on my film camera broke and I took it to the repair shop, which had two huge closed wooden doors. I buzzed, and a very stereotypical little old man with glasses opened the door about 4 inches and asked me what I wanted (in Italian of course). I pointed to the camera and said "broken" and he looked at it for less than 30 seconds before telling me that it was a terrible camera and he couldn't fix it. I ended up finding another place and it is being fixed, but it's taking 2 weeks. In Italy that might mean a month or more. As for sculpture, I'm making a periscope/kaledioscope/something with colored wax and pvc pipe, inspired somewhat by the work of Judy Pfaff. The wax/string thing didn't work out too well, but hopefully another time. Definitely missing Home Depot a little bit right now, something I didn't think I was going to ever say.

Right now I've got to leave about 3 hours early to catch the plane to Milan because there is a "general workers' strike" which means that the buses and Metro might not be running at all, and I will be forced to take a very expensive taxi or shuttle, if that is even running. While strikes happen often here, I wonder at how they operate. The strikes are well publicized and with set hours, usually in the afternoon. If I was going to go on strike, I would at least sleep in.

Tuesday, February 3, 2009

Napoli & Pompeii










Wow, who could've guessed that I wouldn't be very good at this blog thing.
Anyways, life is getting busy here in Rome. I spent last weekend in Naples with a few friends, which was a definite learning experience and a great first trip. Our hostel was amazing and we ate "the best pizza in the world" in the town where pizza was invented. However, you know you're in a sketchy place when police stop you and tell you to watch your wallet or kind old men on the bus tell you exactly how they would steal your camera if they wanted to.

For the sake of brevity, I'll just share a few highlights:
  • Pompeii was out of control. It is such a giant place that we spent 6 hours there and didn't even see half of it. I was surprised to see stray dogs all over, sleeping in the Forum Baths and under collapsed columns. Wandering around the remains of a 7th century B.C. civilization was much more engaging and satisfying than I had expected. And don't tell the Italian government, but I stole a tile that I found in the trash pile behind a tomb.
  • Practicing Italian skills with the very friendly Neopolitans.
  • Pigeons fighting over spaghetti on the street is one of the funniest and most Italian things that I've ever seen.
  • Because of a movie that came out recently, young Italians have been chaining padlocks to lampposts, particularly on a specific bridge in Rome, but we found some padlocks in Naples too.
  • We met an Italian who looked exactly like a 20 year old Bob Dylan in a bar in Naples and when we told him this, he pulled out a necklace with a tiny harmonica and started to play it.
  • Spent the last day wandering around the Bay of Naples, which is beautiful and full of tiny colorful boats. We also went to the Castle of the Egg, which sits out on the bay, and did some people and stray dog watching. And having excellent weather the entire time.
For now, I'm catching up on school work and trying to make a sculpture with wax and string. I'm also teaching English to a 6 year old named Mateo and his 3 year old brother "Terrible Tomaso" and they teach me more Italian than I teach them English. I'm leaving this weekend for an art history excursion to Florence to see "the David" and hopefully some other old art.

Ciao,
Grace